Makomodake

Product information

Our makomodake

We began growing makomo early in our farming life in Tamba, through our connection with the local farm Manmaraku Noen.

Later, growers around Japan shared plants with us. At first we grew the different lines separately, observing growth, plant form, yields and eating quality.

Gradually we concentrated on lines with known origins that consistently produced healthy, good-quality makomodake. Our main line today is Ittenko.

Makomo is a fascinating plant, rather different from our other vegetables. The plant itself isZizania latifolia, a perennial wetland grass. The white, swollen edible stem called makomodake develops through a special relationship between the plant and the fungus Ustilago esculenta.

The fungus lives within the plant and promotes swelling of the stem tissue. Without that relationship, makomo can grow vigorously without producing the edible swollen stems.

That is why the origin and previous harvest performance of planting material matter to us. Growing makomo and harvesting makomodake are not necessarily the same thing.

More than an ingredient

Many Japanese growers feel a deep attachment to makomo beyond its food value. It has cultural and spiritual associations, and many people want to respect the plant first, before treating it simply as a commercial crop.

We understand that feeling.

For us, growing makomo means observing, experimenting and continuing to learn. We enjoy its changes throughout the year, not only the few weeks when edible stems can be harvested.

Some leaves are used for tea, while sound mature leaves are kept for traditional uses such as shimenawa sacred ropes. There is much more to this plant than the stems on the table.

Autumn and winter paddy preparation

Makomo is sometimes described as a hardy wetland plant needing little attention. It certainly grows vigorously, but managing it for consistent harvests of edible makomodake is not so simple.

The busiest period is actually late winter and early spring. Preparation, though, begins much earlier.

After the autumn harvest we cut the tall foliage. Sound leaves are selected and dried for shimenawa and similar uses. The rest, damaged by autumn rain and weather, is chopped and returned to the paddy.

We then keep the paddy unflooded through winter. In areas with particularly strong competition between plants, we may add appropriate farm materials such as homemade compost and carbonised rice husks.

These remain in the paddy over winter while soil and plant residues change with the season. For several months we intervene very little.

A field of stubble may look as though nothing is growing. Under the ground, however, plenty is happening.

Spring: the real work begins

Weather permitting, we start preparations around late February to mid-March. Once severe cold and hard frosts ease, we reflood the paddy and wait for the soil to soften before digging up existing plants.

This is where the hard work begins.

Makomo spreads vigorously by rhizomes. Strong, pointed underground stems travel surprisingly far, around stones, beneath obstacles and sometimes into neighbouring growing areas. New shoots arise repeatedly from their nodes.

A small planting can therefore become a dense stand within a few years. Left alone, plants compete for space, light and nutrients. That may be natural for wild makomo, but it is not necessarily what we want in a paddy producing edible stems.

Lifting and dividing the plants

We work through established plants one at a time, locating and removing as many spreading rhizomes as possible before lifting the root clumps from softened soil. One clump can contain many buds and divisions.

We wash the lifted plants with relatively strong pressure from our gravity-fed mountain water supply. Removing the mud reveals their structure clearly.

With a large, sturdy knife, we separate living outer portions and new shoots. Old central stem bases gradually die and decompose while fresh growth develops around them. We select healthy portions with sound roots and emerging shoots for replanting.

We particularly value material from plants that previously produced good makomodake. Vegetative propagation can sometimes carry forward the relationship with the fungus involved in stem swelling.

Not every division is guaranteed to produce edible stems. Even so, past performance is a useful guide when selecting the next generation.

By the time we finish, we may have lifted and divided hundreds of plants. We keep what we need and can sometimes share surplus healthy divisions with people interested in growing them.

Makomo can also grow in containers, provided its considerable water needs and vigorous growth are managed.

Replanting: room for every plant

Once unwanted rhizomes have been removed as thoroughly as possible, we replant. Our guide is about 1.5–2 metres between plants.

That may look extravagant when the newly planted divisions are tiny. There is a reason for it.

Makomo becomes surprisingly large. Some plants in our paddies exceed two metres, while others in different conditions remain around neck height. We suspect much of the variation relates to environment, plant vigour and competition within the paddy.

Generous spacing allows light and airflow, prevents overcrowding and gives plants room to expand. It also makes harvesting easier.

Makomo leaves are surprisingly sharp. Walking through dense, tall growth can leave small cuts on exposed skin. We already spend enough time in the paddies without making the work unnecessarily hazardous.

Growing in cold mountain water

Water flows into our paddies from the surrounding mountains. In early spring it can be quite cold.

We have lifted, divided and replanted at water temperatures around 10–14°C and subsequently seen new shoots establish. In summer the flowing mountain water can reach around 20–21°C.

These are observations from our paddies in Tamba, not a recommendation of the same temperatures or working dates for every line and region. Southern Japan, for example, may call for a different planting schedule.

Summer is surprisingly quiet

Once lifting, dividing and replanting are done, summer management is relatively simple. We mainly maintain paddy water levels and observe growth.

We do not intervene with every new shoot or try to manage every part of growth. The main task is keeping suitable conditions so the plants can develop naturally.

Weed management is occasionally needed, of course. We particularly watch for konagi (Monochoria vaginalis), a common paddy weed producing many seeds. Fortunately it is easy to recognise and manageable if removed before seed spreads throughout the paddy.

Makomo leaves and tea

In summer we sometimes harvest some leaves, dry and roast them for tea. Enjoying the plant’s seasonal changes is part of its appeal.

Growers differ over the best time to harvest leaves for tea. We suspect growing conditions, soil, leaf maturity and processing all affect the finished flavour.

We have not carried out controlled comparative trials. These are observations and questions, not firm conclusions. Even so, they give us ways to enjoy the plant beyond the autumn harvest.

Growing makomo with rice

We have also tried growing makomo and rice together in some paddies. Watching their different growth and relationships within the paddy has been interesting.

Autumn: waiting for the first makomodake

The approach of autumn is one of the most enjoyable parts of the makomo year.

We grow in several paddies with very different exposure to sunlight. We often see plants in shadier paddies begin swelling earlier than those in brighter locations. Our most productive paddy is shaded for almost the entire day.

Shade limits direct solar warming of the water and plants, so we suspect temperature plays a role. We do not yet know which factors explain the differences in our paddies.

It is something we want to keep observing.

The first signs of swelling

As autumn approaches, we look more closely around the bases. Eventually the lower stems begin to swell: a sign that edible makomodake is developing.

We prepare packaging, organise labels and contact people who have expressed interest to discuss harvest prospects and delivery.

And suddenly, after that quiet summer, things become busy.

Harvesting makomodake

Once harvest starts, we inspect the paddies almost daily, or at least every other day.

Makomodake does not develop all at once. Even in one paddy, individual stems swell at different times and reach harvest readiness separately. We select and cut stems individually rather than clear the entire paddy in one pass.

Timing matters. We choose stems that have swollen well while retaining an agreeable tenderness and crisp bite. The natural crunch of young makomodake is particularly appealing.

But we do not believe they immediately become useless in the kitchen once that stage has passed.

Young and mature makomodake: texture and uses

There are various opinions about the ideal stage to harvest and eat makomodake.

Young stems are generally tender, with an apple-like crunch. They suit thin slicing and quick stir-frying that show off that texture.

A cut stem may be white inside or show black speckles. These can come from the fungus involved in its formation and may become more conspicuous as it matures.

Do not judge freshness or eating quality by speckles alone. Check firmness, fibrousness and smell too. Do not eat stems with an unusual smell, slime or signs of decay.

Texture gradually changes with maturity. The edible part becomes larger and firmer, sometimes more fibrous. Those changes matter when choosing how to cook it.

Later-season makomodake has its uses too

We love the crispness of young makomodake, but find sound, slightly more mature stems excellent for cooking too.

Their firmer texture works well in stir-fries, sautés, butter or oil-based cooking and dishes coated in sauce.

Later in the season, some stems develop a green or tougher exterior. If the edible interior is sound, the outside can be removed with a peeler.

We believe there is still a useful cooking window beyond what is conventionally regarded as the finest fresh-harvest stage. Some large stems remain pleasantly edible inside without excessive fibre, even if firm outside. They particularly suit cooked dishes that benefit from a little bite.

Eventually, of course, stems become too mature to eat. We normally leave those on the plant to split and decompose naturally, returning the remaining vegetation as organic matter for next year’s paddy.

Between young tenderness and excessive maturity lies a useful period. Depending on condition, we may therefore offer later-season makomodake specifically for cooking.

Rather than assume anything beyond the conventional optimum has no culinary value, we hope to show ways of enjoying each suitable stage.

Cooking makomodake

Its versatility is one of our favourite things about it. The flavour is mild and gently sweet; texture varies with cooking method.

Brief cooking keeps young stems crisp, while slightly more mature ones offer a satisfying firmer bite in stir-fries and sautés.

We enjoy it sautéed in a little oil or butter, as tempura, or in dishes where it takes up sauces and other flavours. Slightly mature, firmer stems work particularly well in these dishes.

There is no single correct way to eat makomodake. What matters is understanding the stem’s maturity and choosing cooking that suits it.

Preparation and storage

First remove the outer leaf sheaths to reveal the swollen edible stem, then wash well under running water.

We recommend lightly peeling the slightly tougher skin to expose the tender interior. There is no need to peel deeply. Cut to a thickness suited to the stem’s firmness and your dish.

Refrigerate fresh makomodake and eat while in good condition. Its distinctive crunch is best enjoyed without leaving it too long after harvest.

Our growing approach

Makomodake has taught us the importance of understanding relationships between a plant, its environment and the microorganisms associated with it.

It has also taught us that a robust plant is not necessarily a simple crop to grow.

Left alone, makomo spreads vigorously in wet ground. Growing it consistently as a food crop, however, calls for planning, physical work, selection of planting material and understanding of seasonal development.

We manage our paddies without synthetic pesticides or chemical fertilisers, using homemade compost, suitable soil amendments and flowing mountain water.

We respect the plant’s natural growth while intervening where needed to keep a healthy, productive environment.

Above all, we keep learning. Growth, weather, swelling and harvest timing differ every year. We do not pretend to have all the answers, but enjoy discovering something new about this unusual plant each season.

For our growing approach across the farm, see How we grow (Japanese).

Purchase enquiries

Fresh makomodake is usually harvested around September–October, depending on weather and growth. Because each stem is harvested at the right stage, daily quantities vary.

Enquiries from households, restaurants and shops are welcome. When sound stems remain, we can sometimes offer slightly more mature makomodake for cooking later in the season.

We accept interest in next season throughout the year. Tell us quantities, timing and delivery municipality. As harvest approaches, we explain available quantities, prices, the total including delivery charges and delivery arrangements.

Registration is free, with no obligation to buy and no guarantee of stock or delivery. Orders are confirmed only after you agree to the details. See the linked information page for delivery areas and arrangements within Japan.

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Frequently asked questions

Answers based on our growing experience and the information customers ask about.